



One of the many variations of the basic sweater pattern is the pumpkin costume!
This is pretty easy to work up and is great as a fall, Halloween or Thanksgiving costume.
Gauge 4 stitches per inch
Yarn size 4 worsted weight
Optional:
elastic for the chin strap
Scotch two sided tape to adhere the hat to the head without any straps
(Amazon Affiliate links: I may someday, actually make a few cents from these links, but these are products I have purchased and use regularly)
Stitches used:
MR - Magic Ring (can be replaced with chain 3 and work into first chain if you don’t like the
MR
Sl st - Slip Stitch
Sc - Single Crochet
hdc -Half Double Crochet
Inc- Single crochet increase
Dec - Single Crochet Decrease
R1: ch 16 [16] sl st to join (or MR, 16 sc in MR)
R2: (inc, 3sc) X 4 [20]
R3: 20 sc [20]
R3: (inc, sc) x2, 12sc, (inc, sc)x2 [24] 11cm
R4: sc24
R5: (2sc, inc) x2, 12sc, (2sc, inc)x2 [28] 13cm
R6: (inc, 3sc) x2, 12sc, (inc, 3sc)x2 [32] 15cm
R7-10: 32 sc
R12: (inc, 4sc) x2, 12sc, (inc, 4sc)x2 [36]
R13: 36 sc
R14: 12sc, (dec, 2sc) x4, 12sc [32] (stop here for smaller goose)
R15-16: 32sc
R1:MR 6 sc into MR [6]
R2: Inc x 6 [12]
R3: 12sc [12]
fasten off and weave in ends, leaving one out
Chain 7, 2sc into the 2nd chain from hook 2sc into the next 3 stitches (this makes it curly), hdc in last 2 stitches, fasten off
instead of weaving in ends, use the tails to attach to the top of the hat. I pull each tail through a different hole in the top of the hat and double knot them underneath.
At this point you have a couple options to keep the hat on the goose's head. You can take the loose tail and create a chin strap, fasten off, and weave in the ends.
Or you can take a 3-4 inch piece of elastic to make a chin strap. Make a second "hat" round and attach the elastic to that piece with a double knot, then sew the two rounds together.
The last option is to go without a chin strap and use double sided tape to hold the hat on. The downside to this is that you need a new piece of tape every time you change the hat.
Chain 3, dc into 3rd ch from hook, ch 2, picot, dc into same chain, chain 2, sl stitch into same chain, repeat to add another leaf.
To add a curly vine, chain 10, 2sc into 2nd chain from hook, 2sc into next 7 chains, sc into the next chain, fasten off, use ends to tie onto sweater at collar.
Gauge 4 stitches per inch
Yarn size 4 worsted weight
(Amazon Affiliate links: I may someday, actually make a few cents from these links, but these are products I have purchased and use regularly)
Stitches used:
ch - Chain
dc - double Crochet
Start with 12 inch tail Ch 62,
Sk first 2 ch, 3dc into the 3rd chain from hook.
Continue down chain with 3dc into each stitch, fasten off, leave decent tail for closing the wreath.
Run one tail through the center of the spiral and back through the first 3-5 spirals to close.
R1: Ch 36, turn
R2: Sc into 2nd ch from hook SC the rest of the way down the chain 35
Fold strip in half:
Cross the ends ⅓ up from either end, pull the top of the loop down to meet the cross.
Wrap the middle with yarn and tie in the back of the bow, use tails to tie to wreath.
This pattern is a basic sweater pattern to fit the gooses snuggly. There are so many different variations
that can start with this pattern, pumpkin, strawberry, bumblebee, Varsity sweater, Cat in the Hat, etc.
I will share my variations as I'm able and link the posts here soon.
Gauge 4 stitches per inch
Yarn size 4 worsted weight
Optional:
elastic for the chin strap
Scotch two sided tape to adhere the hat to the head without any straps
(Amazon Affiliate links: I may someday, actually make a few cents from these links, but these are products I have purchased and use regularly)
Stitches used:
MR - Magic Ring (can be replaced with chain 3 and work into first chain if you don’t like the
MR
Sl st - Slip Stitch
Sc - Single Crochet
Inc- Single crochet increase
Dec - Single Crochet Decrease
R1: ch 16 [16] sl st to join (or MR, 16 sc in MR)
R2: (inc, 3sc) X 4 [20]
R3: 20 sc [20]
R3: (inc, sc) x2, 12sc, (inc, sc)x2 [24] 11cm
R4: sc24
R5: (2sc, inc) x2, 12sc, (2sc, inc)x2 [28] 13cm
R6: (inc, 3sc) x2, 12sc, (inc, 3sc)x2 [32] 15cm
R7-10: 32 sc
R12: (inc, 4sc) x2, 12sc, (inc, 4sc)x2 [36]
R13: 36 sc
R14: 12sc, (dec, 2sc) x4, 12sc [32] (stop here for smaller goose)
R15-16: 32sc
(to add ruffles)
Inc in each stitch [64]
Inc in each stitch [128]
R1:MR 6 sc into MR [6]
R2: Inc x 6 [12]
R3: 12sc [12]
(to add ruffles)
R4: Inc in each stitch [24]
R5: Inc in each stitch [48]
Use the loose tail to make the chin strap and weave in ends.
Gauge 5 stitches per inch
Yarn size 4 worsted weight
(disclaimer: Amazon Affiliate links, I may someday, actually make a few cents from these links, but these are products I have purchased and use regularly)
Stitches used:
MR - Magic Ring
Sl st - Slip Stitch
Sc - Single Crochet
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
Dc - Double Crochet
Starting with brown yarn:
R2: 2sc in each sc [28]
Fasten off and weave in ends
I start on the opposite side of the circle to not put a strain on the fasten off brown stitch.
Create a slip knot, insert hook into one of the brown SC from round 2, pull the slip knot through to the front. Sc and start your chain for the next round from this point.
(Ch 9, Skip the first chain, sc into second chain, hdc, dc into next 4 stitches, hdc, sc into initial yellow ch, sc into brown, sc into next brown) x14
The petals will be super curly when you finish. If you like this look you can put it on your goose right away and rock out with it. I like to block the flower by getting it fully saturated with water and pinning it flat to dry, this can be done between two towels, or on a corkboard, etc. You can experiment with starch, diluted fabric glue or some other variation of fabric stiffening products. Regular blocking seems to work pretty well on it's own if you don't want to invest in all the supplies.
It was a great learning experience and I got the highest praise my a veteran crocheter, my Mom, saying it was a great pattern, clear and easy to understand. With Mom's approval, it is finally ready to share with the world, for free! So please don't sell this pattern, I have spent many hours remaking pieces, tweaking the pattern, photographing, editing, proofreading, re-editing... you get the idea! Feel free to sell your finished pieces, just don't sell my pattern as your own, it would hurt my feelings!
I also want to add that my mom was also a collaborator on this pattern. The butterfly variation was her amazing idea, and the wings are her design! Shout out to Grandma Lynn!
I have several more patterns to share for the desk goose, so stay tuned feel free to subscribe for more updates!
If you don't have a goose yet, get one here! (Amazon Affiliate link, I may, someday, make a few cents off your purchase!)
Gauge 4 stitches per inch
Yarn size 4 worsted weight
Hook F- 4.0
Stitch Marker
Yarn Needle
Stitches used:
MR - Magic Ring (can be replaced with chain 3 and work into first chain if you don’t like the
MR
Sl st - Slip Stitch
Sc - Single Crochet
Inc- Single crochet increase
Dec - Single Crochet Decrease
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
Dc - Double Crochet
Surface Slip Stitch
Stacked sc - Stacked single crochet (For Butterfly Only)
Dc2tog - Double Crochet two together (For Butterfly Only)
Tr - Triple Crochet (For Butterfly Only)
Picot - Picot (sl st into chain) (For Butterfly Only)
The body is the same for each variation, with the addition of antennae for the butterfly and back tail feathers for the flamingo
This is stitched in the round, you don’t need to join each round with a slip stitch, unless you prefer that method. I suggest using a stitch marker to keep track of where your round starts.
R1: 6 sc into MR
R4: 4 sc, ch 4, skip 4 sl st from above row, 4 sc [12]
R5-12: sc in each stitch [12] (8 rounds)
R13: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
R14: (2sc, inc) x6 [24]
At this point the increases and decreases need to be in specific areas. Because you are working in a round, the last stitch jogs a little bit with every round and you are not currently at the very back of the piece. Flatten your piece, using the mouth as a reference and sc in next 2-3 stitches so that your starting point for the next round is starting from the back. You should still have 24 stitches for this row. Begin the next row from this point.
R16: Sc 28 [28]
R17: (3sc, inc) x2, 12sc, (3sc, inc) x2 [32]
R18: (4sc, inc) x2, 12sc, (4sc, inc) x2 [36]
R19-20: Sc 36 (2 rounds) [36]
R21:12sc, (dec, sc)x 4, 12 sc [32]
R22: (Sc, inc ) x2, 6 sc ,( sc, dec) x4, 6sc, (sc, inc)x2 [32]
R23-24 : Sc 32 (2 rounds) [32]
Fasten off and weave in ends (for flamingo, see flamingo section below to add tail feathers before fastening off)
Chain 6, sc into 3rd chain from the hook, sc into next chain, sl st into next chain, sl st into next chain, chain 4, sc into 2nd chain from hook, sc into next 2stitches, sl stitch into the same starting chain stitch (this “feather”should start and end with a slip stitch in the same chain on the initial chain) Sl st into the next chain, Chain 5, sc into 2nd chain from hook, sc into next 3 stitches, sl st into the same chain stitch you started this feather from. The “base” of the feathers will be the first three chains from the initia chain. Fasten off, leave tail for sewing. Sew onto top of head.
Chain 4, 2sc into 2nd chain from hook, sl st into next two chains, sew next to the head hole.
R1: 4 sc into mr, tighten MR but don’t close the circle, you won’t be working in a round here.
Ch 1, flip [4]
R2: [inc x 4) ch 1, turn[8]
R3: (Inc, sc) x 4, ch 1, turn[12]
R4: (Inc, 2sc), x4, ch 1, turn[16]
R5: (Inc, 3sc), x4 , ch 1, turn[20]
R6: (Inc, 4sc), x4 , ch 1, turn[24]R7: (Inc, 5sc) x4, ch 1, turn[28]
R8: (Inc, 6sc) x4 , turn[32]
R10: Sl st, (Sc, ch, dc, dc, ch sc, sl st) x5, sl st
Fasten off, cut yarn, leaving a long tail for attaching to the body.
Weave in the beginning thread to secure the magic ring
You can add designs to the tail feather using a surface slip stitch in complementary colors, or you can
leave it as is.
x2
Worked in a round
R1: Sc 3 in MR [3]
R2: Inc x 3 [6]
R3: (Inc, sc) x3 [9]
R4: (Inc, 2sc) x3 [12]R5: (Inc, 3sc)
x3 [15]
Flatten, sc across top to close
Attach to the body with pins and sew onto body at desired position
Secure the yarn strands to the top of the head using ascrap of yarn and needle.
Untwist and unfurl the orange yarn on the top of the head until it’s fluffy.
The yarn is not super secure. You can use a dot of hot glue on the inside of the head to ensure that none of the yarn pulls out of the head.
Rd 1: MR, 8 sc, join
R2: ch 3, 2 dc into next st, and into next 6 sts. Dc in first st, join to top of ch 3.(If changing yarn, invisible join and join new yarn in any stitch) [16]
End of round 2
R3: instead of ch3, work a stacked sc (sc in same st as join, hook into side loop of sc and pull up a loop, yo pull thru 2 loops.This replaces the ch 3.) Work a dc in same st as stacked sc (this counts as your first dc2tog). Ch 1, repeat around (dc2tog, ch 1) x 16 [32]
Rd 3 Stacked SC complete
End of round 3 Invisible Join
R4: Sl st to next ch space (or join in any ch 1 space if changing yarn), Ch 4, 4 dc in same space, (skip next ch 1 space, in next ch 1 sp, 4 dc, ch 1, 4 dc) repeat around. In beginning ch 1 sp, 3 dc, join to 3 ch of beginning ch. (8- 4dc, ch 1, 4dc) If continuing with same yarn, sl st in ch1 and next 4 sts, sl into gap between the clusters. If joining new yarn join in the gap between the 4 dc clusters, not the ch 1 between 2 clusters.
End of Rd 4
R5: 2 tr into the next ch 1 sp, 5 dc in same space, 2 tr, sl st into next gap between clusters. Repeat around. Note the modified fans should be full but not wavy. It is ok to add another dc for all of them if your tension makes it necessary or work all tr stitches. At end of round, ch 1, remove hook, place hook under gap and replace loop, pull loop under gap, ch 1, tighten the loop down. (8 modified fan stitches) Do not cut yarn. Weave in beginning end before continuing.
Round 5
Bringing ending loop of round
Final round- Fold in half with yarn on outside and at upper left with stitches of each half lined up. Sl st into the back loops of lined up stitches around, including the sl st of previous round, to join the 2 halves. If you want to make swallowtail on the 2 lower sections, work those sections like this- sl in next 2 st, sc in next 3 st, ch 3, sl st 2nd and 3rd ch from hook, sl st in top of stitch you started from, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in last 2 sts. At end of round cut yarn leaving a very long tail. Weave tail to center. Use tail to sew to the ‘body suit’ of the goose, starting partway up the neck so that the wings are visible from the front. Use the stitches to help position wings upward so they can be seen from the side. Stitch from both sides to ensure secure placement. Weave in ends and cut.With 3.25 mm hook. Ch 8 tight but loose enough to work into sts. Sl st in back bump of s 2nd ch and next 6 ch. Ch 2 looser, chain 8 as for 1st antenna, sl st in 2nd ch in back bump and in next 6 ch. Cut yarn ch and tighten. Done. From outside of head hook into st at back of head. Put hook through 2 loops at top of 1 antenna, pull through to outside of head. Repeat placing other antenna. I pull down on ends to get bases of antenna in place. Weave in ends. This is easier after Rd 7 or 8 than at end.
R1: Mr 3 sc into MR
R2: 2sc into each stitch [6]
R3: 1sc, inc) x3 [9]
R4: 2sc, sc inc) x3 [12]
R5: (3sc, inc) x3 [15]
R6: sc into each stitch
R7: sc into 14 stitches, inc in last stitch, sl stitch in next stitch to “level” out the round
R8: flatten cone, sc through top and bottom stitch to close the cone x 8,chain 2, turn
R9, dc into each stitch [8] turn
R10: ([sc, dc, sc] into same stitch, sl stitch) x 4 Fasten off, attach to body.
After final body stitch, don’t fasten off, continue SC for 3 stitches past the “Middle” stitch, remember, you might not end completely centered, so adjust these stitches as needed. Once you are 3 stitches from the middle, turn your work. Sl st into the next stitch, ([sc, dc, sc] all into the next stitch, slst into next) x3. The middle three stitches should be completely centered on the back of the goose’s tail, if they aren’t, go back and adjust your stitches to ensure it falls on the center of the goose tail. Fasten off and weave in tails.
© 2025 All rights reserved. This pattern, including all text and images, is the exclusive property of Jocee Inspirations and may not be copied, sold, or distributed. You have permission to sell finished products made from this pattern. Credit to the original designer is appreciated.