Desk Goose 4-in-1 Costume Pattern - Butterfly, Duck, Turkey, Flamingo

 I have recently become obsessed with the new desk goose trend (similar to a porch goose, but smaller scale), and starting making outfits for them. After searching for crochet patterns for desk goose clothing, I found that the internet did not have a lot available, and what was available was for sale. So I made my own! I actually covered my goose in saran wrap, then masking tape to make a dress form, then measured and did math to figure out all the important stuff that no one cares or thinks about when they are using a pattern. 

It was a great learning experience and I got the highest praise my a veteran crocheter, my Mom, saying it was a great pattern, clear and easy to understand. With Mom's approval, it is finally ready to share with the world, for free! So please don't sell this pattern, I have spent many hours remaking pieces, tweaking the pattern, photographing, editing, proofreading, re-editing... you get the idea! Feel free to sell your finished pieces, just don't sell my pattern as your own, it would hurt my feelings!

I also want to add that my mom was also a collaborator on this pattern. The butterfly variation was her amazing idea, and the wings are her design! Shout out to Grandma Lynn! 

I have several more patterns to share for the desk goose, so stay tuned feel free to subscribe for more updates! 

If you don't have a goose yet, get one here! (Amazon Affiliate link, I may, someday, make a few cents off your purchase!)

Desk Goose Costumes

Gauge 4 stitches per inch

Supplies:

Yarn size 4 worsted weight

Hook F- 4.0

Stitch Marker

Yarn Needle

Stitches used:

MR - Magic Ring (can be replaced with chain 3 and work into first chain if you don’t like the

MR

Sl st - Slip Stitch

Sc - Single Crochet

Inc- Single crochet increase

Dec - Single Crochet Decrease

Hdc - Half Double Crochet

Dc - Double Crochet

Surface Slip Stitch 

Stacked sc - Stacked single crochet (For Butterfly Only)

Dc2tog - Double Crochet two together (For Butterfly Only)

Tr - Triple Crochet (For Butterfly Only)

Picot - Picot (sl st into chain) (For Butterfly Only)

Body:

The body is the same for each variation, with the addition of antennae for the butterfly and back tail feathers for the flamingo

This is stitched in the round, you don’t need to join each round with a slip stitch, unless you prefer that method. I suggest using a stitch marker to keep track of where your round starts.

R1: 6 sc into MR

R2: inc 6 [12]

R3: 4sc, 4 sl st, 4sc [12]

R4: 4 sc, ch 4, skip 4 sl st from above row, 4 sc [12]

R5-12: sc in each stitch [12] (8 rounds)

R13: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

R14: (2sc, inc) x6 [24]

At this point the increases and decreases need to be in specific areas. Because you are working in a round, the last stitch jogs a little bit with every round and you are not currently at the very back of the piece. Flatten your piece, using the mouth as a reference and sc in next 2-3 stitches so that your starting point for the next round is starting from the back. You should still have 24 stitches for this row. Begin the next row from this point.

R15: (2sc, inc) x2, 12sc, (2sc, inc) x2 [28]

R16: Sc 28 [28]

R17: (3sc, inc) x2, 12sc, (3sc, inc) x2 [32]

R18: (4sc, inc) x2, 12sc, (4sc, inc) x2 [36]

R19-20: Sc 36 (2 rounds) [36]

R21:12sc, (dec, sc)x 4, 12 sc [32]

R22: (Sc, inc ) x2, 6 sc ,( sc, dec) x4, 6sc, (sc, inc)x2 [32]

R23-24 : Sc 32 (2 rounds) [32]

Fasten off and weave in ends (for flamingo, see flamingo section below to add tail feathers before fastening off)

Turkey:

Head Feathers:

Chain 6, sc into 3rd chain from the hook, sc into next chain, sl st into next chain, sl st into next chain, chain 4, sc into 2nd chain from hook, sc into next 2stitches, sl stitch into the same starting chain stitch (this “feather”should start and end with a slip stitch in the same chain on the initial chain) Sl st into the next chain, Chain 5, sc into 2nd chain from hook, sc into next 3 stitches, sl st into the same chain stitch you started this feather from. The “base” of the feathers will be the first three chains from the initia chain. Fasten off, leave tail for sewing. Sew onto top of head.

Turkey Gobbler:

Chain 4, 2sc into 2nd chain from hook, sl st into next two chains, sew next to the head hole. 

Turkey Tail Feathers:

R1: 4 sc into mr, tighten MR but don’t close the circle, you won’t be working in a round here.

Ch 1, flip [4]

R2: [inc x 4) ch 1, turn[8]

R3: (Inc, sc) x 4, ch 1, turn[12]

R4: (Inc, 2sc), x4, ch 1, turn[16]

R5: (Inc, 3sc), x4 , ch 1, turn[20]

R6: (Inc, 4sc), x4 , ch 1, turn[24]

R7: (Inc, 5sc) x4, ch 1, turn[28]

R8: (Inc, 6sc) x4 , turn[32]

R10: Sl st, (Sc, ch, dc, dc, ch sc, sl st) x5, sl st

Fasten off, cut yarn, leaving a long tail for attaching to the body.

Weave in the beginning thread to secure the magic ring

You can add designs to the tail feather using a surface slip stitch in complementary colors, or you can
leave it as is.

Fold the tail feathers in half, and flatten the body. Lineup the tail and body along the fold to find the middle of each and line them up. The bottom edge of the tail should be attached 1-2 rows up from the bottom of the body. Sew the tail and the body together. You can add designs to the tail feather using a surface slip stitch in complementary colors, or you can leave it as is.

Duck:

Duck Wings:

x2

Worked in a round

R1: Sc 3 in MR [3] 

R2: Inc x 3 [6]

R3: (Inc, sc) x3 [9]

R4: (Inc, 2sc) x3 [12]

R5: (Inc, 3sc)

x3 [15]

Flatten, sc across top to close

Attach to the body with pins and sew onto body at desired position

Duck Hair Fluff:

Take 4 strands of orange yarn, 6 inches. Fold all strands ofyarn in half and pull through the top of the head, from theinside, with a hook.

 Secure the yarn strands to the top of the head using ascrap of yarn and needle.

Untwist and unfurl the orange yarn on the top of the head until it’s fluffy.

The yarn is not super secure. You can use a dot of hot glue on the inside of the head to ensure that none of the yarn pulls out of the head.

Butterfly:

Rd 1: MR, 8 sc, join

R2: ch 3, 2 dc into next st, and into next 6 sts. Dc in first st, join to top of ch 3.(If changing yarn, invisible join and join new yarn in any stitch) [16]

End of round 2

R3: instead of ch3, work a stacked sc (sc in same st as join, hook into side loop of sc and pull up a loop, yo pull thru 2 loops.This replaces the ch 3.) Work a dc in same st as stacked sc (this counts as your first dc2tog). Ch 1, repeat around (dc2tog, ch 1) x 16 [32]

Rd 3 Stacked SC  complete

End of round 3 Invisible Join

R4: Sl st to next ch space (or join in any ch 1 space if changing yarn), Ch 4, 4 dc in same space, (skip next ch 1 space, in next ch 1 sp, 4 dc, ch 1, 4 dc) repeat around. In beginning ch 1 sp, 3 dc, join to 3 ch of beginning ch. (8- 4dc, ch 1, 4dc) If continuing with same yarn, sl st in ch1 and next 4 sts, sl into gap between the clusters. If joining new yarn join in the gap between the 4 dc clusters, not the ch 1 between 2 clusters.

End of Rd 4

R5: 2 tr into the next ch 1 sp, 5 dc in same space, 2 tr, sl st into next gap between clusters. Repeat around. Note the modified fans should be full but not wavy. It is ok to add another dc for all of them if your tension makes it necessary or work all tr stitches. At end of round, ch 1, remove hook, place hook under gap and replace loop, pull loop under gap, ch 1, tighten the loop down. (8 modified fan stitches) Do not cut yarn. Weave in beginning end before continuing.

Round 5

Bringing ending loop of round 

Final round- Fold in half with yarn on outside and at upper left with stitches of each half lined up. Sl st into the back loops of lined up stitches around, including the sl st of previous round, to join the 2 halves. If you want to make swallowtail on the 2 lower sections, work those sections like this- sl in next 2 st, sc in next 3 st, ch 3, sl st 2nd and 3rd ch from hook, sl st in top of stitch you started from, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in last 2 sts. At end of round cut yarn leaving a very long tail. Weave tail to center. Use tail to sew to the ‘body suit’ of the goose, starting partway up the neck so that the wings are visible from the front. Use the stitches to help position wings upward so they can be seen from the side. Stitch from both sides to ensure secure placement. Weave in ends and cut. 

Antenna 

With 3.25 mm hook. Ch 8 tight but loose enough to work into sts. Sl st in back bump of s 2nd ch and next 6 ch. Ch 2 looser, chain 8 as for 1st antenna, sl st in 2nd ch in back bump and in next 6 ch. Cut yarn ch and tighten. Done. From outside of head hook into st at back of head. Put hook through 2 loops at top of 1 antenna, pull through to outside of head. Repeat placing other antenna. I pull down on ends to get bases of antenna in place. Weave in ends. This is easier after Rd 7 or 8 than at end.

Flamingo:

Flamingo wings:

Working in a round

R1: Mr 3 sc into MR

R2: 2sc into each stitch [6]

R3: 1sc, inc) x3 [9]

R4: 2sc, sc inc) x3 [12]

R5: (3sc, inc) x3 [15]

R6: sc into each stitch

R7: sc into 14 stitches, inc in last stitch, sl stitch in next stitch to “level” out the round

R8: flatten cone, sc through top and bottom stitch to close the cone x 8,chain 2, turn

R9, dc into each stitch [8] turn

R10: ([sc, dc, sc] into same stitch, sl stitch) x 4 Fasten off, attach to body. 

Flamingo Tail Feathers:

After final body stitch, don’t fasten off, continue SC for 3 stitches past the “Middle” stitch, remember, you might not end completely centered, so adjust these stitches as needed. Once you are 3 stitches from the middle, turn your work. Sl st into the next stitch, ([sc, dc, sc] all into the next stitch, slst into next) x3. The middle three stitches should be completely centered on the back of the goose’s tail, if they aren’t, go back and adjust your stitches to ensure it falls on the center of the goose tail. Fasten off and weave in tails.

© 2025 All rights reserved. This pattern, including all text and images, is the exclusive property of Jocee Inspirations and may not be copied, sold, or distributed. You have permission to sell finished products made from this pattern. Credit to the original designer is appreciated.